http://www.albertahomegardening.com/how-to-build-an-inexpensive-hoop-style-greenhouse/
How to Build an
Inexpensive Hoop-Style Greenhouse
One of the most valuable assets in my garden is my greenhouse. It has
allowed me to grow plants that I normally would not be able to grow, produce
crops that the season is not usually long enough to produce, and protect my
plants from frosts, hail, or other severe weather that normally would have
destroyed my garden.
But I don’t have
thousands of dollars to spend on a greenhouse. I just priced out an 8’x12’
greenhouse for $3,500. I would love to have a large, professional greenhouse,
but that simply isn’t financially feasible for me. So, instead I’ve found a way
to make a large greenhouse that is functional, easy to build, and inexpensive.
This article will explain to you exactly how to build a 12’x32’ hoop-style
greenhouse for under $400.
Required Materials List
Note:
All wood should be green, treated wood to resist rot. (Or you can spend more
money and buy a rot resistant type of lumber such as cedar.)
· (4) 2×6 – 16’
· (2) 2×6 – 12’
· (14) 2×4 – 12’
· (19) ¾” x 20’white pvc pipe
· (9) 10mm x 10’ rebar
· (1) 20’x50’ roll of 6mm plastic
·
(1)
Bundle of 50 4’ wood lathe (or optional staples)
· Zip ties
· Nails or screws
· Metal banding
· Door hinges and handles
Step 1 – Laying Out the Frame
Using the 2x6s, lay out and put together your 12’x32’ frame. (You can join
the two 16’ pieces with a 2’ piece of 2×4.)
Ensure that the
frame is square by measuring diagonally across it. You can temporarily keep the
frame in place by pounding a 30” piece of rebar in each corner. (You can pull
these out to use them in the next step.)
Step 2 – Adding the Hoops
Cut
each 10’ piece of rebar into four 30” pieces of rebar. This will give you
thirty-four pieces. Pound the rebar into the ground about 15” deep on the
outside of your frame at two foot intervals. This will leave 15” sticking up out of the ground.
Now slide both ends
of your pvc pipe over the rebar to make a hoop across
the width of your greenhouse.
Attach
the pvc pipe to the 2x6s by screwing short pieces of
metal banding around the pipe.
Step 3 – Building the Ends
Cut
the following pieces out of your 12’ 2x4s:
·
(2) 11’8¾”
·
(4) 1’6″
·
(4) 4’7″
·
(4) 5’7″
·
(8) 1’11¼”
·
(2) 4′¼”
For
each end, assemble the wall according to the following diagram.
Place
this wall within the 2×6 frame and nail/screw in place.
Cut (4) 28” 2×4 pieces. Cut one end at a 45º angle.
Use these pieces to brace the wall.
Once
all of the hoops and the two ends are in place, connect two pvc
pipes together and cut them to measure 32′ long. This will be the rib
that will go along the top of your hoops. You
can attach this rib with plastic zip ties.
Step 4 – Covering the Greenhouse
with Plastic
If
you are going to use wood lathe, cut 32 pieces of 20” lathe. These will secure
the plastic to the sides of the 2×6 frame in between each hoop. Or optionally,
you can use staples, though they may have a tendency to pull through the
plastic.
Drape
the plastic over the length of the greenhouse. Be sure to have enough overlap
at the ends to cover the end walls. Pull the plastic snug and attach to the
2x6s at one end using the wood lathe or staples. Go to the other end, pull
snug, and attach in a similar manner. Do this at the center, and then along the
rest of the length of the greenhouse.
Note:
If you can do this in warm weather, there will be less sagging later. Make it
as snug as you can without causing damage to the plastic.
To
attach the plastic to the ends, pull the plastic straight down, and attach with
lathe. Then pull the plastic out to the sides. This will give you extra plastic
along the outside edge. Fold the plastic back towards the center and attach. For the end with the door, cut out the plastic leaving a few inches
of over hang to wrap inside and attach.
Step 5 – Adding the Door
Before
you cut your pieces, check the actual measurements for the space you have. Your
wall may sit a little different than mine. It’s always better to go a little
small or your door may not fit. But if the measurements are the same, cut the
following pieces out of your 12’ 2x4s:
·
(2) 4’11″
·
(2) 3’9″
Nail
these together to make your door frame. Lay a 2×4 diagonally across the frame
and nail in place. Trim off anything that hangs over the frame of the door.
This will be on the inside of your door. Too much wood hanging over will jam your
door. Attach the hinges to the door
frame.
Cover
the outside of the door with remaining plastic or you can use plywood if you
would rather. You can attach the plastic with the wood lathe or staples. There
should be about 4” of overhang of plastic on all sides.
Attach
the door handles to the door. Mount the door to the frame.
And
there you go! You can have a beautiful 12’x32’ hoop-style greenhouse that can
be built in a weekend and all for less than $400.
——
Update: July 11th, 2008
To see just how
well this greenhouse works, see my July Greenhouse Update.
Update August 5,
2009
For an new and improved version, see An Inexpensive, Hail
Proof, PVC Pipe Greenhouse.
Update November 29, 2010
Improved design. Changed
material list from half inch PVC to three-quarter inch PVC.
Be Sociable, Share!
- 10
360 Responses to How to Build an Inexpensive
Hoop-Style Greenhouse
1.
Francesca says:
Howdy! We are in the process
of building our pvc hoop house, but one thing is not addressed in anything that
I read and that is the fact that the the 6ml 4yr poly everyone refers to cannot
be in contact with pvc as it will degrade rapidly. What have you done, if
anything, to address this? I’m thinking just painting with primer as a block
between the two plastics and their chemical reactions. Have you noticed any
degradation? I’m looking at purchasing Tufflite IV 6ml film. Let me know. Frame
is up but as it is so hot right now we are putting up shade vs. plastic so
won’t add plastic until late September.
o
Dave says:
Francesca: The poly that I’m
currently using (11ml woven poly) has shown no signs of degradation where it
contacts the pvc. But your idea is a good one – a
white primer would be effective.
o
dana says:
I wrapped the pvc w duck tape. I had it up for two years w no problems
2.
C says:
I have read to use tape. I
don’t know what type but suppose it should be waterproof.
3.
Monica says:
How does this greenhouse hold
up over the winter? What is winter like there?
o
Dave says:
Snow load is the only problem
I’ve had. Most of our snows are pretty dry – but when we get wet, heavy snow,
the pvc pipes begin to sag under the weight.
o
Peter Kirkdale says:
I had one similar in the
Cariboo area of B.C. Plastic lasted 4 years though it did stretch. For
snowload, in the winter I placed 2X 4′s upright to support the hoops. Just stood them up. The one thing I would do differently is
provide for ventilation. These babies heat up. Stick a fan in the end or allow
for rolling up the sides.
4.
Nira Milo says:
I live on
5.
Nick says:
September 11,
2012 at 11:08 am
Do you use it during the winter.
o
Dave says:
Nick:
I do not.
6.
Robin says:
What do you do about
ventilation? That’s the only flaw I can see with this greenhouse, it would get
very hot in the height of summer and the plants would literally cook. Without
being able to lift the sides, how do you get good air flow to control summer
temps?
Thanks.
Robin
o
Dave says:
Robin: I leave both of the end
doors open throughout the summer – this provides plenty of ventilation.
7.
Jong Park says:
September 27,
2012 at 11:53 pm
Nice
greenhouse!
Where can I buy 20′ pvc pipe and 11mm poly cover?
I would need one greenhouse in
my backyard, good benchmarking.
Cheers!!
o
Lara says:
You can buy PVC pipe / poly at
any big box DIY store
8.
Attarix says:
Thanks for information. I will
try to construct the same hothouse of the house.
9.
Laurene of Palapye,Botswana says:
Like design and princaples,
however we have a wind and sun temperatures of approx.40degrees in the summer.
How does the p.v.c. pipe stand up to the ultra violet rays? i.e
becomes brittle in our climate,also I would like to use shade cloth.
o
Dave says:
Laurene: Yes, the PVC will
become brittle over time.
§
Willie says:
Or at any
Electrical wholesaler.
§
Kathy says:
Couldn’t you use gray
electrical PVC conduit? It is made to stay outside in the sunlight.
o
Dana Ritschel says:
PVC will break down when
exposed to the sun for long periods. It can also react with plastic coverings
if the two are in direct contact. I wraped all of the pvc
with duct tape prior to installing. i used gorilla
tape and it is still holding up great over a year later. Im in central
o
Mark says:
I used black schedule 40
electrical conduit. It is made to hold up well against sun exposure (just like
black nylon cable ties). A little more expensive, but well worth the extra bucks.
My electrical supplier dropped the pipe off for me at no charge, so maybe I did
not pay more after all.
o
David says:
If ultraviolet rays are a
problem try using electrical pvc. I believe it is
sunlight resistant. Costs a little more then plumbing pvc
but would last much longer time wise.
10.
Benoit Roussel says:
Here this tipe of green house
is not guaranty,-4celcius and all frozen,I build one insulated north and west
it is the wall of my house and the heat of my house go thru the wall and lift
much more the freezing degre.This year it freeze inside on november 6.
o
Ron Monsour says:
To handle a deeper freeze you
would double the tarp and use a fan to keep an air-gap. If you worry about snow
load or wind add 1×4″ to the top and sides with screws the length of the
structure. Those are proven upgrades that allow hoop houses in
11.
susan shaw says:
just wanted to say
THANK YOU! i had already started my green house — and was in huge debate on how
to finish off the ends – oh happy day i found your link on PINTEREST – THANK
YOU for your tutorial — loved the piece down center top to brace it using the
zip ties. no cutting no 4 way joints to order —
hawgsnkisses from farmer sue!
12.
Rene says:
I just want to say thankyou
for the idea I am going to start build my Green house for a aquaponics in
puerto rico this is a real inexpensive Green house thankyou again when I
finished i am goin to send you Photos
13.
Barb says:
We live in the
Have you had to deal with any
of these issues and how does your design hold up?
o
Dave says:
Barb: The only weather related
problem I’ve had with this design is heavy snow load. Wind, rain, and even hail
have never been a problem – even the most severe weather!
14.
Frits says:
Thanks for giving me the
inspiration to build a hoop-style greenhouse myself. I have taken you overall
design at added a few alternatives. It’s only 4 x 4 m in size so a 4×6 m white
reinforced tarp fits as covering. The sides are raised about 0,5 m from the ground so plants can grow tall even close to
the sides. The frame rest on 6 small cyndrical concrete pipes
as fundation that was trash to others but building material to me. The
wood frame has a extra framing to make it more stabil
to wind pressure. Ends are made of plywood and with a door in each end for
maximum ventilation on hot days. Total costs about 400 US$. In
15.
Ann says:
I built a similar greenhouse
30yrs ago only I added wooden bracing lengthwise from door to door. Instead of
poly I then pop riveted sheets of corrugated fiberglass to the frame and base. slightly more expensive but it lasted for over twenty years
and would still be there if we had not sold to a developer. Cost effective in the long run.
o
colin peek says:
You can use I bolts around the
entire greenhouse and run rope over the top of the plastic to help strap it to
the pvc for areas that have a lot of wind. It will help the plastic during winter months
16.
mike says:
hi i live 2 hours
east of
o
Dave says:
Mike: The big box stores will
only carry the thinner 6mil stuff – you want to order online from
NorthernGreenhouse.com!
o
jim griffin says:
Industrial supply
store. Usually privately owned. Here in NS it is
…Seaboard Industrial supplies
17.
We have a polytunnel! | The Farm for
Life Project says:
[...] 12′ wide. Chris took most of his construction design
inspiration from the polytunnel on this Alberta Home Gardening website. As for
cost, we were able to build it pretty inexpensively. We bought the pvc piping (the [...]
18.
Michael says:
Bookmarked your
page a couple of years ago. I built a 12×24′ wood frame and
installed the PVC pipe last year. It sat in one garden until yesterday when I
deconstructed it and my family helped carry it to my BIG garden. I
reconstructed it and have finished half of 1 end wall. I’ll finish the rest and
we’ll put the plastic on tomorrow.
I just wanted to thank you for posting the plans for this super easy,
inexpensive, and practical greenhouse. My seedlings will be happy to go from my
germination chamber to the greenhouse and then into my high tunnels.
Cheers!
Michael
Lobby
19.
Brad says:
Great simple
greenhouse design. Thank you for sharing this cost effective way for
anyone to have their own greenhouse.
I like your website and will
be checking out your other articles.
20.
Wellington Family Farm says:
We’re gonna give this hoop
house a go over the weekend. Thanks for putting this together and including an
organizer material list, sure save us other folks the time. This seemed to be
the most affordable and practical solution for us. Thanks!
21.
kyle says:
Will the pVC
bend correctly if a attach 2 10 footers together with a PVC union?
o
Dave says:
Kyle: That will work –
however, I find that the top joint then becomes your weakest point and I’ve had
a few snap on mine after a season. I
would caution against that…
22.
Brian says:
The only 3/4″ pipe I
could find is called super pax. I tried it today, (20 ft. length)and it is not rigid enough, barely holding up its own
weight! Anyone else having this problem? I did find pieces of PVC pipe in the
Home Depot catalogue, but nothing over 10 ft. Any suggestions?
o
Dave says:
Brian: The pvc
you want is quite rigid. You may want to try at your local plumbing supply
store. I’ve had success at UFA and Co-op…
23.
Sten Nelson says:
What may help keep the 3/4
inch tubing from getting brittle from the sun would be if you covered it with
3/4 inch insulation. But it will still
get brittle over time.
24.
Gordan says:
Hello am gonna build your
plan, but make it 12′x 16′. What size roll of poly would I need?
Also if I shorten the width to 10′, will it make it taller with the same
20′ pvc pipes? Thank you
o
Dave says:
Gordan: I usually order my pvc 2ft greater than the dimensions. So I would order 14×18
for you. And yes, shorter widths = taller
peaks!
25.
michael says:
That’s great work,pvc pipe is good,maybe fiberglass hoop for row cover is
better instead,Fabric row covers are lightweight blankets made of spunbonded
polypropylene which is sunlight, rain and air-permeable,maybe is better than
plastic roll.
26.
michael says:
Some days ago,I bought 1/2″ fiberglass stake from AMAZON,one boss
told me that long fiberglass stake use it as hoop,that is good,if someone like
it,maybe you can try it,all right? Michael
Lee
27.
michael Lee says:
I bought some hoops from
Amazon,at the same time,I bought some 3/8″
fiberglass stakes for supporting tomatoes,that is great!
28.
michael lee says:
if we build simple
greenhouse,we would use corrugated fiberglass panel to build it,the strength is
better than film.
29.
michael lee says:
Last time,one
of friends recommend to use fiberglass hoope for the greenhouse,when I bought
them and used them,found those are good,you like you may got to mrgarden.net to
choose them.
30.
Allan says:
Quick idea – if you screw the
hoops to INSIDE of ground boards – NO stress on screws or brackets as hoops are
pushing out against wood not bracket..
31.
Lisa says:
I would like to start
transplants in March for early spring planting, but living in
o
Dave says:
Lisa: Yes, that system should
work well!
32.
Scott Bennett says:
I’m VERY interested in
building this greenhouse. Has anyone had any experience with this in heavy
wind? I live in
o
Dave says:
Scott: I think it would all
come down to how well you fastened it down. The structure itself should hold up
just fine. You’d just have to make sure that the plastic was very tight and
that the entire structure was well attached to the ground!
§
Scott Bennett says:
Thanks a ton for the info.
33.
Sherrie says:
Thank you so much for Sharing this, I saw under Facebook/ Survivorist Daily, I
actually have a Small Greenhouse, and was destroyed last Night in a freak rain
storm. I will be able to use yours and re-enforce what I have..
Thank you from Seattle
34.
Becky says:
I am going to try this for a
chicken run… using poultry netting instead of the poly..
so excited to see how it turns out!
35.
Francesca says:
Update: Our
16′x36′ hoophouse has been up for a year now. We did 3/4″ pvc
over rebar in ground (18 down/30 up), with 2×4 end walls, baseboard is 1×8
cedar fencing secured with pipe straps, we did roll up sides about 30″ up
and secured with pipe straps to 1×2 stripping. Purchased film from A.M. Leonard
– great price, service and it’s held up well even through 80mph winds, wrapped pvc in duct tape to prevent pvc/plastic degradation. Hubby
added 2x4s two uprights and one across secured to pvc
with strapping every 12′ (uprights were cemented into ground to create a
sort of door frame to help stabilize the structure. Worked out very well! Will
probably do a 2×4 36″ stud wall with 12″ rebar drilled into 2x4s (6
in, 6 out) then add pvc with three ribs running lengthwise, secure plastic to
toprail of studwall, so can roll up sides from below. will
also add either deer fencing or chicken wire to stud wall to keep out critters
– we did that with hoophouse. Hope this gives others some additional info! Go
out and grow food!
o
nick m says:
Hi
Francesca,
I’m planing to use Dave’s design with some small modifications. BTW Dave, your
design is the best from hundreds I found on line.
I like the idea to open the sides over the very hot days and the extra support
to the structure.
I will appreciate very much if you can send some pictures of your build. my email: nicolopicolo@gmail.com
Regards,
Nick,
36.
Michael Lee says:
I have a big front yard close
to the road, every month, some car pass by here, my fence scratched a little ,so one of my friends told me that you got some
driveway marker from mrgarden.net’s and inserted the land, something will be
changed, so I hear what he said,then got it and put there, yeah,that’s a good
idea.
37.
Lyse Chardin says:
Hello,
What a good job! Fine idea! I already had build some
greenhouse nearly like this one when I was a child with my father.
I’m frenhspeaking, and I would like to traduce your article in French. May I
translate it to French and edit the translation on my site? And I always name
the original source, of course!!!
Thanks for sharing experience.
38.
ted says:
wow I love it going to
build one in northern
39.
boyd hussey says:
if i use the two
layer s of plastic idea what type of fan and setup is necessary?
40.
kerry says:
this is a great idea,, good as
a store bought one,,and in some cases better,,am growing seabuckthorn plants
from seed,,and cuttings,and this extra protection will be what is needed,
thanks fron leadore idaho,,,,,
41.
Christine says:
We are attempting this hoop
house this week and will keep you posted! We live in the high interior of BC
and often get high winds, so we will add strapping to the side. We are using
the poly, but now after reading comments, will replace eventually with the
woven poly. Didn’t realize the PVC pipe needs to be wrapped – if it is not,
does anyone know how long it will last? One or two seasons?
I like the idea of using 2×4′s to support the pipes in the winter months
for the snow load! This plan only has a door – would that be enough venting in
summer months if left open or would you recommend doors on either end? We usually only get into the mid 20′s for heat.
o
Dave says:
Christine: The white pvc doesn’t need to be wrapped. I’ve had my hoop house for 5
seasons now and just this winter, I had one pvc pipe
snap under heavy snow load. I think if I had the 2×4 supporting them, there
would be no problems at all! I have a door at each end of my 20′ house
and that vents well enough. If you go longer, I think you may want other
ventilation.
42.
Whitney Segura says:
I must give you guy’s my
applause, which doesn’t happen very often, I have been around this industry and
the act of showing other’s how-to build greenhouses of all styles, not just
hoop houses, and I would have to say that this is probably within the top 3,
best hoop greenhouse construction guides that I have ever come across online,
and I am well known for very in-depth research and sharing of that research.
So, I just wanted to drop a
line by, and give you my compliment, and tell you that if you’d like to write
for one of my companies many high traffic, high authority, guest authorship
content networks, within our greenhouse and gardening website’s, we’d be happy
to publish you’re work.
In addition, I would love to
submit to you, a guide of my own, and I have several different unique how-to
build greenhouse kits in styles, in which I have found no one else has done
properly online yet, so it’s sure to be a hit. And, if you didn’t like it, then
don’t publish it, but I would bet money on it, that you’re going to love my
content and content distribution networks, all owned by myself and absolutely
no spam.
Very nice to meet
you, looking forward to talking about a further strategical alliance /
relationship.
Thanks again, and have a great
day.
- Whitney Segura (Founder and
CMO at EarthCare Greenhouses)
43.
Christine says:
We built the same hoop house
(April 2014) for just under $400 in the interior, BC,
44.
Jim says:
We began construction of our
greenhouse this evening. We modified the plans a bit but followed them for the
most part. We were fortunate to get most of the lumber and the rebar donated
but all things considered the cost would be in line with the article. If all
goes well we hope to double our length by winter enclosing a compost bin and
try to keep a few things producing until the bitter cold hits.
Thanks
for the inspiration!
45.
nick m says:
Awesome design and working to have this
up by this fall.
Electrical supply store has 1/2 or one inch PVC tubing.
Did anione used the 1/2, around $0.4/ft.
Your reply would be very much aprecaieted.